For me, angora rabbits are provide a great deal of enjoyment and companionship. I love going to shows and working to improve the breed. But, they are also the source of a wool that is incredibly soft and warm, which appeals to my sense of “making stuff from scratch”, which privides a common thread through my many interests.
Angora wool can be handspun into fine, durable yarn. It is seven times warmer than sheep’s wool and so light it provides a great deal of warmth without weight. Angora wool is continuously renewed and gently harvested during the rabbit’s natural molting process. The angora rabbit is never harmed for its wool.
Before you decide to make the personal and financial commitments required to successfully raise angora rabbits, take the time to visit and talk with those breeders actively raising rabbits. Learn as much as you can before you become involved. You will need to decide what your primary goals will be from your angoras. Do you want animals for pet, show or wool? What breed of angora do you want? How much time will you be able to devote to your rabbits on a daily and weekly basis? How much space can you devote to properly housing your rabbits?
Breeds
There are four breeds of Angora. All of them are quite distinct from each other; the only real similarity is that they are all wool bearing animals. (No, these rabbits do not have fur. They have wool; a difference best understood when you learn to spin your Angora fiber.
The English Angora is the smallest of the A.R.B.A. recognized angora breeds. Senior weight for bucks is 5 to 7 lbs., and for does is 5 to 71/2 lbs. It is easily distinguished from the other breeds by its short-coupled and compact body and heavy amounts of wool furnishings (tufting) on the face, feet and ears. It is very popular for it’s cute, cuddly appearance and gentle personality. The English Angora produces silky textured wool with a subtle luster and color.
The French Angora has a “commercial-type” body. Senior weight range for bucks and does is 71/2 to 101/2 lbs. The French Angora must have clean (normal furred) face and feet. The wool is coarser than the other breeds due to heavier guard hair. The type of guard hair on the French helps to keep the coat easier to care for. Yarns produced from French Angora have the greatest amount of “fuzziness”. A well-worn garment made exclusively of French Angora will eventually look like a fur.
The Giant Angora really is “giant”! They have a commercial-type body and senior weights for bucks begin at 81/2 lbs. and does at 9 lbs., there is no top weight. They too, like the English, have wool furnishings (tufting) on the ears, face and feet. They produce the most amount of wool of all the Angoras.
The Satin Angora is the newest Angora breed. They were developed by crossing French Angoras with Satins. They are very similar to the French with clean feet and faces. They are slightly smaller the weight range for bucks and does is 61/2 to 91/2 lbs. The wool is fine, soft and silky and must exhibit the sheen that distinguishes this breed. The sheen is created due to the smaller diameter and clarity of the individual hair shafts. Even in a dim light these rabbits seem to glow! This wool, when spun, produces a yarn with beautiful luster that is very soft.
The English, French and Satin Angoras are available in virtually any natural color desired. The French also are available in “broken” color which is any color in conjunction with white. The Giants, at this time, are accepted in white only. There are colored Giants available but, they are not eligible for show.
Choosing
When searching for a breeder to supply your initial stock, look for a reputable one – one who shows concern for the rabbit’s health and contentment. Their rabbits will live in healthy, comfortable surroundings. They will be willing and eager to offer information and support, and guarantee the stock they sell.
When choosing a rabbit firs look at it in it’s cage or on a table. It should look healthy and, if you’re looking for show stock, be readily identifiable to its breed by the specific characteristics it displays. Then examine it manually. Check it’s muscle tone, which should be firm; it’s weight, which will vary with breed and age but should be within normal expectations; and it’s general condition – it should exhibit a healthy and uniform coat, bright eyes and clear breathing. Avoid and reject animals with ear mites and encrusted ears, a runny nose and sneezing, weepy eyes, crooked teeth, difficulty in moving and listlessness. It will be easier for you to assess or judge the rabbit that you intend to purchase if you visit rabbitries or attend rabbit shows beforehand.
Supplies
You will need to invest in equipment, materials, and supplies before you bring your rabbit home. Housing must provide protection from the weather and predators and must be maintained in a sanitary manner to ensure your rabbit’s good health. Wire cages are recommended because they are easy to keep clean and sanitary. Routine wire brushing to remove droppings, urine deposits and wool buildup, along with occasional washings with a disinfectant (dilute chlorine bleach solution) will keep the cage clean.
To provide easy access and protection from predators, wire cages should be supported at least three feet from the ground. Provide shelter against drafts, rain and sun by placing the \cages under the cover of a shed or barn. Good air circulation and ventilation is crucial for removing odor, moisture and heat. Fans and ice bottles will provide relief on hot (88+degree) days.
Feeders are also needed. The two most popular types are the snap on metal “J-type” feeders with screen bottoms that sift fines from the feed and heavy-duty, chew resistant, crocks. These crocks may also be used for waterers or you may prefer water bottles with ball-tip “straws”. All equipment must be routinely cleaned and sanitized.
Health
Robust stock properly housed and fed, are those most likely to remain in good health. Routine inoculations are not required. Medication is used only for disease outbreaks or to prevent show stress.
Angora rabbits are particularly prone to woo block, a condition caused by ingesting wool while grooming themselves. Symptoms include a decrease in the size and amount of dropping, going “off-feed”, and if left untreated, failure to thrive and death. Treatment includes, but is not limited to, feeding enzymes like papain or bromelain, cat hairball remedy such as Petromalt, restricting pelleted feed and replacing it with roughage such as oat or alfalfa hay, and increasing exercise until the condition clears. Removal of the coat is most essential and is always the first thing to do is wool block is suspected. Prevention, always, is the best treatment. Do not overfeed your rabbit but be sure to include plenty of roughage and maintain it’s grooming schedule.
Nutrition
A rabbit’s digestive system is quite different from that of many other domestic animals. They are able to store portions of feed in their system where internal bacteria will ferment the ration into the nutrients needed for activity and growth. Indigestible roughage passes quickly through the system and does not provide nutrients.
Angoras should be fed a good commercial rabbit pellet containing 16% to 18% proteins. Special wool formula pellets are available. A young rabbit of three months and under should be free fed, but it is important not to over feed an adult rabbit. Limit treats to low moisture foods such as apples, twigs, carrots, bread cubes, oats, unsweetened cereal, seeds, and nuts. And remember these are treats; don’t give them too much. The rabbit will prefer to eat the “treats” before their pelleted feed, which provides their energy for growth and protein for wool. Avoid feeding lettuce, cabbage and greens, as these will give the rabbit diarrhea.
To keep your rabbit’s digestive system in good working condition and to aid in the prevention of wool block, a handful of hay can be given daily. This hay is meant for roughage and need not be of high nutritional quality.
Lastly, but of extreme importance, is water, plenty of it. Water must be CONSTANTLY available to your rabbit. A thirsty rabbit is also a hungry rabbit, as they will not eat if they do not have enough water to drink.
Rabbits are basically nocturnal animals but do tend to stretch out their activity over a 24-hour period. For this reason it will probably be wise to tend to you rabbits more than once per day. Water them twice daily and feed in the evening. They will then be eating during their most active part of the day and, if the weather is hot they won’t be subject to problems that can occur if they should eat the bulk of their feed in the heat. Regularity in schedule and procedure will not only keep your Angora healthy, your close attention to the animal will let you know when it is not feeling well.
Grooming and Harvesting
Angoras will generally shed their first coat sometime between four and six months and then again ever 10 – 14 weeks. Some grooming is necessary between harvests. With a slicker brush you can brush weekly to remove debris and loose wool from the coat to keep it free of mats. You will also need to clip long toenails. To clip the nail, simply hold it between your thumb and finger and clip just above the vein that is visible inside the nail. Grooming more than once a week should be avoided since it will cause uneven coat growth. Your bunnies, however, love daily attention. Be sure to pat them and say “hello” when feeding and watering.
The prime form of Angora wool is the mature, ripe fibers that are naturally released or shed by the rabbit and plucked by the groomer. It is wise to separate any soiled or matted wool from the prime-plucked wool, which is ready to be spun as it is harvested from the rabbit. All breeds of Angora may be plucked but the Giant Angoras coat tends to grow constantly and is therefore generally sheared.
When storing wool, try to keep as much loft or air between the fibers as possible. Try not to compress the wool and avoid extremes in temperature and excessive humidity. These conditions will cause the wool to mat or felt. Keep your wool in a smooth surfaced container with a cover. If it will be stored for a long period of time you may consider adding cedar or camphor moth repellent.